Eight months ago, I'd stood outside Keflavík airport and seen the snow-capped cone of Snæfell, 70 miles away across Faxaflói. It was a clear sign, telling me that I would certainly return to Iceland. I felt that very strongly but I never expected to come back so soon. While I was in Belgrade I'd heard that a volcano had started erupting in the Fimmvörðuháls pass, close to where I'd been hiking. It was an impressive and easily accessible eruption. I couldn't believe it had happened so soon after I was there and I felt annoyed that I wouldn't see it because I assumed it would stop long before I could get there. But the eruption continued, and I began to think I might see it after all. One Monday morning, with the eruption still going on, I decided to go back. I booked a flight for the Friday, and then spent an agonising four days hoping that it wouldn't stop, that the weather would be OK, and that I'd be able to get to the site.

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